Amazing White Island
finally reached Whakatane (remember, no giggling) late that afternoon and
checked in to the pleasant Nau Mai
motel. Nau Mai is Maori for "welcome"
and true to its name, the proprietor, a genial fellow named Rod, made me feel quite
at home. After I asked about the next day's boat ride to
White Island, Rod even booked me a reservation for it. As I'm learning, this is how most New Zealanders are,
think a lot of people are especially friendly towards me since I'm traveling
was my first night in a New Zealand motel, most of which are "self-contained" with a
full kitchen, refrigerator, dinnerware, and small appliances like a toaster,
blender, and coffee-maker. In the U.S., you're lucky to get a microwave in
a motel room,
let alone plates and utensils. After Rod gave me the key to my room, he also handed
me a small bottle of milk. I was a bit puzzled with this odd housewarming
gift, but I learned this was customary when you get a room in a New Zealand
motel. The milk, as I discovered, is for your tea, which, of course, lost its popularity in the U.S. a few centuries ago after the Boston Tea
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got up early the next day, drank my bottle of milk, and got ready for a
six-hour tour of White Island, a volcanic island which lies about 20 miles
offshore. White Island is the most volcanic place in New Zealand and
the only way to get there is by permitted boat tour or, for an extra $100,
by helicopter. Needless to say, considering my Spartan budget, I opted for the boat
ride. After arriving at the dock, I paid Jenny, the pleasant young
woman in the office, my $40 fee. A moment later, she handed me a
long release form and, with a smile, asked me to read it and sign at the
bottom. As I was scanning down the lengthy form, I asked Jenny about
potential hazards. "Oh, don't worry," she cheerfully replied, "there
haven't been any eruptions on
White Island for three months." Jeez, that was reassuring.
About an hour later, around noon, about 30 of us boarded the 60-foot boat, "PeeJay,"
then we rode
for two hours across the warm and sunny Bay of Plenty until we reached the
island. During the pleasant, bouncy ride, I became a bit more
apprehensive when our guides handed out hard hats and gas masks. I
was really starting to wonder about this trip. Finally we approached
the island and the PeeJay dropped anchor in a protected cove a few
hundred yards offshore. Soon afterwards our group took the Zodiac raft ashore, where we spent a few
hours hiking around.
White Island is
about two miles across and is totally uninhabited -- indeed, it's a hostile place for any living creature. A
small volcano in
the middle of the island constantly belches clouds of sulfur making it pretty difficult to
breathe. Oh yeah, it smells pretty bad, too.
Although the fumes were intense
at times, I fortunately didn't need to use the gas mask. However, after
walking around the island for an hour and strolling up to the edge of the
crater, I could taste a sulfuric crust starting to build up on my lips,
which reminded me a bit of my homemade pizza (a tip -- don't ever eat my
homemade pizza). On the way
back to the beach, we passed several steaming vents and walked through a warm, acidic
stream a few inches deep which, as the helpful tour guide pointed out after we crossed it, will eat the rubber off your boots. As utterly fascinating as the island was, it was good to get
back on the PeeJay again.
On the boat ride back to Whakatane, I was thinking about the health of the
young tour guides, because they come out here twice each day. When I
asked one of the young women guides about it, she said that she wasn't
bothered at all by the sulfurous fumes. However, after I thought about it,
maybe that's not a good sign. I just hope they're making good
money, because I definitely wouldn't want to visit White Island every
In any event, White Island is one of the most
fascinating places I've ever been to in my entire life and I'd definitely recommend it to anyone
who's interested in volcanoes. Or losing their lungs.
left: Saturday morning in Whakatane.
center: Boarding the PeeJay for an
all-day trip out to White Island.
right: Once on board, they handed out gas masks and hard hats.
left: After a couple hours, we anchored.
Then we hopped
in a Zodiac and rode ashore.
center: That's not fog... that's
steam from a volcano.
right: The view from the beach.
White Island is about 20 miles offshore and is the most active volcano in New
left: Our first stop was a sulfur
factory that operated until the early 1900s, when several men here were killed
by an eruption (obviously, pre-OSHA). We got a lesson here from our guide on how to use
our gas masks.
center: As we hiked closer to the
volcano, it got harder to breathe. The whole island smells like rotten
eggs from all the hydrogen sulfide.
licked my lips here and tasted sulfur. This is a nasty place and I don't think
I'd want to be a tour guide coming out here twice a day. The island was totally fascinating,
fishing here is pretty marginal.
center: Hiking down one of the
crossing a stream. Don't
worry about your shoes -- it's just sulfuric acid.
left: As we returned to the ship, I
realized that this island is probably what the
Earth looked like (and smelled like) a billion years ago.
center: Rafting back to the PeeJay.
right: A warm, windy ride back to
Whakatane. So long to the
amazing White Island.
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