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Dunedin: Waiting... and Waiting I spent a week in Dunedin waiting for the skies to clear so I could go out and explore the area, but the rain never quit. I mean, seriously, in seven days it never once stopped. So I made the best of it and consoled myself by perusing through my Lonely Planet guidebook, looking at the beautiful pictures of the Dunedin area, including the Otago Peninsula. According to my guidebook, the peninsula is a lovely pastoral area east of the city, about 20 miles long.
After waiting several days for the rain to stop, I finally got fed up and drove out to the Otago Peninsula, but I didn't see much of anything except clouds and driving rain (there's that word again). I kept referring to the pictures in my guidebook to see what it would've looked like if it was sunny. Pretty pathetic, huh?
There's an albatross colony out on the Otago Peninsula, though, which was interesting. Albatrosses are large seabirds that fly thousands of miles each year during their migrations, farther than just about any bird in the world. They nest only in a few places around the world, including here in New Zealand, and they're absolutely HUGE. Imagine a seagull literally the size of a turkey and you'll get the idea – and not one of those scrawny turkeys your Aunt Mabel serves for Thanksgiving. No, I'm talking about a 24-pound self-basting Butterball. Seeing one of these humongous birds up close and in person, I finally understood the term, "Like an albatross around my neck." And then, for some reason, I started thinking about cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie.
I went into downtown Dunedin several times during my sodden week there and strolled along George Street, the main thoroughfare, while wandering through many of the small stores and shops. Despite being soaked, Dunedin was really hopping, this being the middle of the six-week summer holiday. I drove down to the train station one afternoon to take the four-hour scenic train ride through the Taieri Gorge, something like the famous Durango-Silverton train ride in Colorado. However, the train was just about full and I didn't think I'd enjoy sitting on a cramped and steamy train in an aisle seat.
Instead, I got some fish and chips from a nearby takeout, went back to my motel room, flipped on the TV and watched the New Zealand Black Caps cricket team play Australia. Even though the Kiwis lost, eating fish and chips while watching cricket was so much more enjoyable, I decided, than being packed like a sardine on a crowded train.
One of my main goals in Dunedin was to visit Baldwin Street, which I'd read about in my Lonely Planet guidebook. In fact, other than the rain and the albatrosses, the thing I'll probably remember most about Dunedin is Baldwin Street, which is reputedly the steepest street in the world. My photos on this page don't do it justice, unfortunately.
I drove out to Baldwin Street one rainy afternoon (of course – what other kind?) and when I turned the corner and saw it, my jaw dropped. I didn't have the nerve to drive my Corolla up the street because I wasn't sure if it would make it – or if the brakes would work well enough on the way back down – so I parked my car and walked up to the top. During my short hike up the street I had to stop twice to catch my breath. I hope the folks who deliver newspapers and mail here get big tips.
Above left: This is what Dunedin looked like during the week I was there. The rain gave me a chance, though, to update my website and return e-mails. Above center: The Railway Station, still in use, is the most beautiful building in Dunedin. Above right: This is inside the Railway Station. I was going to take a scenic all-day rail trip from here, but the train was packed.
Above left: According to the Guinness Book of World Records, Baldwin Street in Dunedin, with its 35% slope, is the steepest street in the world. Above center: Jeez, don't people here know how to build houses? They're all slanted! Above right: Just foolin'. Actually, this is what the houses on Baldwin Street look like. Cars have to get a running start before they drive up the street.
Above left: Visiting soggy George Street, the main thoroughfare in Dunedin. Above right: And the soggy Otago University. Folks told me that this creek is normally just a trickle.
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